First sample magics..

First Samples! There’s nothing better and more rewarding then when your sketches comes back as first samples ready to be fitted, discussed, edited or accepted just as they are. In some cases you’ll have to do a lot of corrections and perhaps even
change your own ideas what works and not. I have had a meeting with my dressmaker and had a fitting of one top and a pair of pants that I designed. The pants was just like I imagined if not better and she added a ‘invisible pleat’ that looks stunning. I’m in luck this time, having a dressmaker that makes gutsy changes and tailors with perfection. She’s also open to discuss the fit and change things around.

The top is designed to be shorter in the front and longer in the back and double lined. After trying it the sleeve was slightly too tight, the lining perfect and I liked that you could see a glimpse of it (she asked if it was okay that the lining poked out from underneath to avoid tension on the side cut) “yes I said, as I studied it.

There is a lot of decisions to be made, from top-stitches to french pockets and width of lapelles. The only thing that needed to be changed was the front length (or lack of) on the top, so I decided to lengthen it while giving her another two designs to work on, yay…finally I’ve found someone just as nuts a myself:-)….

Update to date, seeking inspiration in materials…

Hi guys!

“Seeking inspiration in seasons, material, nature and trends…”

While the weather has turned from sunny skies and wearing nothing but flip flops and T-shirts it has been raining and a nordic wind from god knows were works it’s way through every single layer of garments that I have been wearing. My dressmaker on the other hand has been happily working on both my patterns and getting my samples ready for tomorrow when I’m suppose to meet her for a first fitting. I managed to express order some additional fabric for a bomber jacket and it’s proven to be launched at the right time since the weather doesn’t do much for a dress by its own. That made me think about the importance to Launch your garments at the right time. Trying to sell dresses in a coming Autumn (for example) without any knitted garments or jackets to go with it. Nothing wrong with dresses, in fact they seem to sell at any season since New Year and every other Christmas party requires one. It’s just making them for those occasions. Sparkly or in black version to be paired with a little fur coat or a wrap.

I can’t wait for tomorrow and will make sure to bring a camera so that you guys can get an update on how the sampling process is going.

Take Care and happy creating out there…xx Alice

Fashion mood boards

Before setting a collection it’s best to start making a ‘mood board’. That’s a collection of cuttings, fabric- swatches, trims and various ‘cut outs’ from magazines , all made to create a vibe and vision of your collection. Mood boards is a great way to set designs and find inspiration for combinations of colors and reflects seasons and, well the ‘mood’:-)

Here’s an example of a mood board that I found at beyondbostonchic from boston bridal lounge…there are plenty of different versions and ways to go about making ‘mood boards’ so don’t let anything restrict you. I tend to make mood boards alongside sketches and photos of clothes that are inspiring to me. I have just finished setting the clothes that I want to make thanks to fabrics that inspired me. Some designers find inspiration and nature, current trends with a tweak or environments, buildings, a trip or a random walk. It’s a creating process and every seasons and collection changes, with that said, be true to your estethic and label, it’s about having a style and stick to it. I’ll add some Fashion Illustrations and Ways to find Fabrics in the next couple of days!

I thought I’d show you some pieces from the latest collection-2012 (pictured above) and my take of a ‘mood board’; a mix between fashion illustrations and fabric cuttings… /xx Alice

Decide what to design…?

My labels has just arrived (including the cute little Hang Tags pictured in yellow)

So, I’ve now finished having my meeting with the ‘new dressmaker’ and it turned out to be a happy surprise. She was flexible and just as excited about my 6 piece collection as I was.
Sitting here by my laptop I started thinking about the different steps Starting the Collection. It’s sort of a “who came first, the hen or the egg?” dilemma. You want to have your designs all set before meeting up with a dressmaker or Manufacturer but it’s also important to have the right tailor/dressmaker/seamstress/manufacturer to discuss the designs with (so make sure to leave room for adjustment in the clothes) try not to be too ‘stubborn’ to what fabric and particular look, since it’s not always going to be possible or economical in production…

I've stocked up on fabric so that it's easy to pull something out of a pile and start collaborating

Then it’s the question about fabrics, do you go ahead and buy the fabric, or do you make everything in Calico, Muslin? I would recommend making the Samples in the fabric that your actually planning to make the collection in (I know it’s a little bit costly to use the ‘real’ fabric and not experiment with for say 18 USD/yard contra 3.95 USD for Muslin but how else would you be able to imagine the finished piece? That’s my advice but everyone works differently. You can choose to order less fabric to collaborate with or just swatches, most websites and stores are quite flexible as long as your willing to pay a small fee for cuttings…Tomorrow I’ll show some of my sketches when I draft the collection…

How do you work making first samples? Sew them yourself, go straight to the manufacturer or collaborate with a dressmaker? Always love some idea sharing…Alice

Day one; Finding a Dressmaker?

My new Collection 'room/office'

No.1 I’ve successfully (and finally I might add) found a local Dressmaker that matches me, being flexible, avaliable and ‘easy going’  enough to design and collaborate with all my ideas…

“Hi, what about talking about what I’m making?!” yes, why not?

I never got the chance to blog about Making my Collection back in 2008…and I have always dreamed about doing a full cover of the design process. While I was filming (a lot) in India I never captured the initial sketches in the ‘start up process’ and didn’t do much writing on my ‘old’ blog back then either. So the process with choosing the fabric, setting the entire looks and what garments to make right to the sketches and Garment Sampling is what I’m planning to show-case here, thanks to having a ‘play ground’ like Make it Fashion!

1.Finding a Dressmaker (I searched locally by googling: dressmaker/seamstress/tailor) and then my area/country..

This is what I’ve wrote to the Dressmakers that I managed to find;

“Hi! My name is Alice and I’m a ‘starting out fashion designer’ with a small label. I have previously made collections over-seas and I am familiar with the process and providing detailed sketches and fabric cuttings, plus plenty of ideas. But I have a lacking ability of ‘sewing’ any garments to what I would really like them to look at.

I am in the hunt for a dressmaker to collaborate with, firstly for a few garments aimed for a first Sample Collection, the clothes needs to be finished by 1 June approx 1 month away. I have recently moved to Tauranga and found you online/

What I would like to know firstly is;

Do you have time for this?

What you’ll need from me, anything I can start preparing?

Quote the job?

Do you do ‘home visits’ as an option?

Do you charge a set price per finished garment or is it an hourly rate?

(If so, what’s the hourly rate or usual cost?)Thanks in advance and look forward to hear from you (and possibly get started, I might also be keen for follow up jobs if these pieces work out and work expanding to more designs:)

Warmest Regards! Alice

———————————————————————————————————————————————————–

To summon things up, I emailed a total of 4 local dressmakers that seemed okay to work with (for me it’s important that they have a website) since I prefer to work online without spending too much time physically commuting to approve the process, therefor; I need someone that knows their way around a computer)..I got 2 replies back, one saying:

Hi Alice,I’m booked up till 23rd of June,so not the best person to help you. My hourly rate for daywear is $25 minimum. I don’t have a set price per garment and don’t do home visits.
Jill
Not the most exciting response but then I got a second email: 
Hi Alice
Thank you for your enquiry.  I would need to speak to you and have a look at fabrics and your pictures to ascertain whether I would be able to undertake the work you want doing.
Please contact me with contact details and possibly a time that would suit you to meet.
Cheers
Trish
———————————————————————————————————————————————————–
Will have the meeting tomorrow, so I’ll update you then:-)…In the meantime, here’s ‘me’ working to finish the last tweaks on the 6 samples that I want to make…more sketching to do! As a final note: Rule number one, if you can’t sew make sure you can sketch and explain your designs, use pictures or ‘physical samples’ (never straight copy) but use as references…

working out the labels and lining, here cutting fabric to attach to the pant sketches...

See you soon:) oh, feel free to ask me questions as we go along…

Designer of the Month-May 2012

For anyone new to Make it Fashion.com I am ‘every month’ shedding light to a new emerging designer! I ask them questions I think all us ‘beginning designers’ would like to know and they tell it just as it is. I love to be able to help other Fashion Designers in what I’ve always felt has been a tight lipped industry and these interviews is just a little part of it. Rebecca is a member of Make it Fashions VIP forum community and if your serious about making a collection, why don’t you join us?

Now Introducing the very talented;

Designer of the Month-May 2012 Rebecca of Huxton

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. Hi Rebecca, tell us a little about yourself, how old are you, where do you live and what kind of education, schools have you attended (any previous Fashion jobs/education or are you self- taught?

My parents are Swedish and English, my upbringing has been in Denmark, Spain and in the UK where I did my education in International Business and Languages.  Since finishing my education I have lived in Barcelona for 10 years and I am now based in Vietnam. I am 36 years old. 

2. Do you remember when you first decided that the best option was working as a self-employed designer and that clothes where your passion?

I’ve always been a little restless which is partly due to being brought up in different countries and constantly changing lifestyle.   Combined with this I have an entrepreneurial spirit which has always made me fight against the odds, to swim upstream and fight for a lifestyle in which I can enjoy life and work in equal measures.  Being self employed has for me been the only option, what has changed is the projects I have dedicated myself to. 

In the past ten years I have started several projects with varying levels of success but I never really found something that touched my heart.   I am naturally very creative and I never managed to combine this with my business sense and work in something I am truly passionate about.   

I have designed and sewn my own clothes from a young age and I have always loved how the clothes you wear really can depict a personality.  My personal style has always been boho chic with an elegant and trendy edge which is the theme for Huxton, the label I created in 2011 with my all time best friend, Jo. 

As soon as Jo and I started to develop the idea of Huxton I was filled with excitement – finally something I truly love, something for which I feel a real passion and something from which I can create my own version of an ideal business and lifestyle.

3. Tell us how you went about setting your company/business up? What is the procedure for a person who’s never set up their own business, any basic steps?

Well, we based our company in the UK where it is very simple to start either as a sole trader or set up a LTD company.  For most people I would recommend starting as a sole trader as it does not require much paperwork, you can literally just start trading, invoicing and etc.  The set back would be that when you invoice clients, it may not look quite as ‘ big’ as having a Ltd company, but I would start like this to gage the reaction of buyers to a new collection and then move over to a Ltd company which has setup costs as well as strict legal requirements for book keeping.  This is what we did with Huxton. 

The other basic important things to keep in mind are the name, the logo, the website. There are programs nowadays to help create websites that are relatively user friendly and not at all costly. I have used in the past weebly.com, prestashop, and wordpress and I know another good program used by a couple of my clients is shopify  (apart for managing the development and production for Huxton I also provide these services to other designers).

4. How did you go about finding someone to sell and represent you (any online tricks) or do you sell all your designs yourself?

After a lot of research and meeting with retailers, agents and etc we decided to focus on our own website and retail from there. The main reason was that we wanted to have the liberty to do promotions and to benefit ourselves from the retail margins as well as build up the traffic to our own site.  Working with clients who were more established than myself promotions wise I realized that with good marketing, it is possible to create an online brand and sales sufficient to get brand recognition and if you can do it, it keeps all your focus on one area, allowing you later to branch out to wholesale.  We also use Asos Marketplace and Ebay to sell our designs. 

Our next steps will be to work with online retailers focused on the smaller brands and to grow from there.  We will also stock a few very select boutiques and hope to grow from there. I do feel it is very important to choose one avenue and give it 100% and then to move on to the next ones. Each designer will choose a different path and it depends on their capabilities, what can be invested etc. 

5. How do you know what mark-up to use and describe briefly how you put a line sheet together?


The typical mark up is simply to multiply your cost plus the margin you need by 2.5. This is your RRP.  This however is mostly relevant to when you sell to boutiques and department stores as they use high markups on your products and so you must try to have as low costs as possible of course to have yourself a suitable margin.  This can be tough when you start out as costs are always higher the less you produce. 

Hence there is a benefit in retailing yourself as the full margin goes to you and you can lower your retail price as needed to turn around stock. 

I don’t have a line sheet yet as I have not wholesaled our collection yet. 

6. I know your based in Vietnam, what is the benefits of being ‘on the ground’ where the collection is made versus in a different country and what do you provide to your manufacturer, sketches or sewn samples?

I came to Vietnam initially to find a manufacturer for my range.  You can read about the difficulties and challenges I encountered in my blog where I describe the whole process of sourcing the right manufacturer, fabric etc.  http://huxtonclothingblog.com/category/rebeccas-adventure/ 

I visited over 10 different manufacturers and mostly coming up against the same problem which was that they required a minimum order of 100 pieces to develop my designs.  It was very disheartening for quite some time as we simply did not have the financing available to produce over 1000 items for our first collection, nor would we have done if we did have the financing available. I have learnt from my many years in business that slowly is the best way and testing the market response. 

I now work with 4 different manufacturers both for my own line and for 5 clients I consult for. It has taken a long time to build the relationships with these manufacturers and certainly I could not have done it from afar.  It was realizing this that made me set up as a consultant helping also other designers realize their dreams by using my experiences and learning curve to help others.   It is very difficult to build up a relationship when you are not there,  constantly on the ground working side by side.  I certainly could not have managed it for Huxton had I not decided to stay in Vietnam.   

I work in variuos ways , from sketches and swatches, from photographs and from samples sent to me.  It really depends on what the designer can provide. 

For Huxton we work with our sketches created  from a mood board where we develop the feel of the collection and then create from there the styles.  

The basic rule is that the more you can offer a manufacturer to work from, the better they can create what it is you designed! 

7. Where and how do you go about sourcing fabric for your collection?

I source a lot of the fabric in Vietnam from markets and wholesalers. Some fabrics are imported from China where there is a huge selection of fabrics available via Alibaba Express where smaller orders are permitted and can be couriered to me.  I also have buying trips to Thailand and will soon be in Bali to source fabrics as well. 

8. Tell us about a normal day for you, how do you work and organize yourself, from 8 to 5?

My day starts with taking care of myself which means a game of tennis, or yoga or gym.  I know that if I don’t do this first thing, I will end up being incredibly busy and not have time for myself later.  As I am ahead in time (7 + GMT), a lot of my work is done in my afternoon and evening when Europe has woken up.  Of course when I’m working with manufacturers, that’s in my timescale so I have to adapt to their availabilities. 

Before starting the meetings of the day I go through my emails and paperwork and online promotional tasks. This takes about 3-4 hours per day.  Meetings are typically from early afternoon as well as communication with clients and my partner in the UK. 

I’m not strict with when I work, I never have been. Because I have always worked for myself, I have learnt to integrate my work into my personal life. I’m always working and not working so to speak, it’s the same to me. I don’t have weekends ‘off’  for example, but perhaps I will take a day off mid week if I have something I want to do.  I really adapt myself to what is needed and when. 

This is probably not a good system for most people starting and running their own company though!  It is really important to find what works best for you. Starting a new company requires 100% dedication and planning and most people work best in a typical 8/5 work day so that they can then switch off at the end of the day. 

9. What’s your vision for your label, where do you think you are in a year from now and 10 years from now, if you decide and dream?

For me, the whole point in creating my own label is to create the lifestyle I dream of by doing something I love.  And as I’m doing it with my best friend who has similar dreams, this is a very easy question for me. 

I want to live in and travel to different countries.  I want to travel to be inspired and to source fabrics for my collection and for my other designers.  At the moment my base is  in Vietnam because it is where I produce but I travel plenty from here.  It is important to me to have that freedom and I’m very lucky to have Jo based in the Uk managing the promotional side of things for Huxton as I manage the production.   Of course our roles also overlap so I need to spend time in the UK just as Jo needs to travel to Vietnam and on sourcing trips with me. We design our collection together so this is essential. 

In a year I hope to have reached further with Huxton which of course means selling more and we will soon be branching out from our online sales to work with other online retailers as well as boutiques and eventually department stores.  Initially we will focus only on retailers in the UK for ease of management of the relationships. 

In ten years time I hope my lifestyle will be the same but even more varied. I hope that Huxton will be well established as an international brand, though for me, it does not need to reach the highest heights.   I want mostly to live a fulfilled life and to run a successful and respected brand which will require drive and dedication. 

In parallel I hope to have helped other new designers benefit from my own experience and see many of them become a success and attain also their dreams. 

10. How do you get your brand seen-noticed, any tip? Tell us what you do?

I have learnt that blogging is essential. Not in the sense necessarily of having your own blog, but certainly in reaching out to bloggers. And it is not easy! The well established bloggers have over 20,000 followers and many are other bloggers trying to get their attention and of course brands asking for a mention on the blog. It’s a slow process but certainly worth it. 

At Huxton we target bloggers whose style we greatly admire and invite them to visit our site. If they like a particular item we send it to them and ask in return that they wear it and post it.  This is a great way to get traffic to your site.  Big bloggers are very influential and can give you thousands of hits from just one post. 

Other means are creating sites in Lookbook, Pinterest, Tumblr and so on, but it is slow to get a following. Of course Facebook and Twitter are useful too.

11. Where can we buy and find your clothes? Do you have a website or an Online Shop?

Absolutely and it is about to get a facelift www.huxton.co.uk 

 

Thank you Rebecca for being so helpful, best of luck with your gorgeous designs!

xx Alice

What do you think about Fashion Competitions..?

I have been thinking about entering a New Zealand Fashion Competition this year (probably a little bit last minute) it takes time to organize it all and then due date is this June. There’s the; getting all the sketches and ideas ready to make the garments (or find someone that make them for me) and then there’s the labels and…
photos that needs to be organised. But it’s a great way to get some exposure and try out an audience while getting some vital questions answered “what does everyone else think about my designs, the style and am I good enough?”.  Being judged is though but can be a learning experience and I it’s like the saying; “your only as good as your latest designs”…I’ve started working on 3 pieces for a Collection section of the Hokonui Fashion Awards, there is a long list of entry sections like “Jeans”, “Mens Wear”, “Street Wear” etc. Admittedly I entered last year, a placement of 31 out of 100 (isn’t much to brag about) with that said I’m not giving up, I’m braving this challenge with the hopes that a mention and better placement.

For Australia and NZ designers fashionexposed.com has a Debut Competition really worth while, more designing then:)…So, I’m putting the question out there, have you had any experiences of a Fashion Competition and what’s your opinion about it?

VIP Forum for Fashion Designers finally Started, tick!

A Worldy Premier!

Aspiring Designers are successfully networking in Make it Fashion’s New VIP Forum…I’m so happy that it’s up and running and we are already sharing topics with each other like:

  • Do you actually like sewing and is it a way working around that?
  • Where can you find a suitable Manufacturer and who can make small quantities for a beginning designer?
  • Education vs Self-Taught?
  • Naming your label and the first start out steps?
  • Where to find fabrics and accessories for your Collection?
  • …and lots more…

I have also started making an interest list of any VIP Forum Member that wants to be featured as Designer of the Month here at Make it Fashion.com, a great chance to get your label and link to your website out there. April, May, June and October for 2012 is already booked out.

The forum was one of my biggest goals for this year; create a place for new and novis designers with the idea that we could learn from each others mistakes and fortunes, give and get advice and feel like any question is okay to ask. Can’t beleive it took off so quickly and that we all made it happen. If your interested in joining the forum it’s now offered FREE to anyone that purchase my E-book. If you want to know more, just contact me here or put a comment below!

Welcome/Alice

I ordered some clothing labels and made a wish this week…

Hi!

I’ve just had my birthday and (as I blew out the candles) I couldn’t help secretly wishing for a  great dressmaker and design allied this year…Come to think of it, I had a seamstress making my samples in Wellington as I trained with her and man it was wonderful.

To be able to discuss how the fabric falls, limitations of each garment and where I could put everything. You sort of need someone with a trained eye to edit your designs to. So, it’s really all about how you go about things, plan and sketch and in the end your set goals and deadline and foremost who you decide to work with, get help from and sell through.

This time around I have promised myself to sit down and plan everything and not just drift around and let things sort of solve themselves or happen by chance. You need to study the local market (if that is where you intend to start) and see what people are wearing, ask questions like price points and where you intend to sell…Am I happy making 5 pcs of a tunic and keep doing that for seasons to come or do I set my goals much higher and worldwide? Well, that’s where blowing out candles on a cake comes in…it’s like a milestone when you force yourself to wish for something and what you wish for might actually come true..

Enough philosophic talk for one post..I would love to hear what you are up to, if your designing something but haven’t launched it yet and so on..I’ll make sure to keep you in the loop too. And don’t forget to come back each month for the very new feature here on Make it Fashion.com ; Designer of the Month and next up is Rebecca that is a real ‘go getter’ girl!

That’s all for now (I’ll post as soon as my labels came back from the label maker as well, yay)…

Loving other Labels…

Today I have been thinking about my top 10 garments-the design process has officially started!

So, as a tip, Ask yourself; What would I wear? then ask again; Why would someone else buy it?…

This is just two of a lot of questions that you will need to ask yourself as you start designing. Probably a few times while crunched over sketchpads and magazine clippings …Some people refers this to the “Design Process”. It’s healthy to contemplate collections, change and scrap or add things to each piece and looks. As you venture into your own ‘bubble’ making a collection you will also appreciate the magic of “editing”. Editing meaning giving your garment a second glanze to see if there is anything that doesn’t need to be there or if something needs to be added, it could be a simple zip changed to a slightly chunkier model giving the garment a raw edge? The art of editing is sometimes best done by others as they’ll inspect it with a new pair of eyes. I have spent all day browsing through Elle longing to get started with a new fresh collection and love to be inspired and get that “must have” feeling, nothing beats it! I then asked myself, “What would I buy and would I design something like that?” As for the picture below, Isabel Marants quilted jacket the answer is YES. There is nothing wrong with feeling passionate about a different garment, the important thing is to feel passionate about YOUR garment, the one your working on and imagine that someone else will feel that too…

 

Do you have any muses or labels that you adore?….my label of admiration is Isabel Marant!